A journey to Tangdhar
“BRIDGING the divide for peace and prosperity.” These were the words written near the bridge constructed for over to Azad Kashmir near the Line of Control in Tanghdar.
It was some days back when I visited the place for a reporting project with “Act Now for Harmony and Democracy (ANHAD), a Delhi-based Non-Governmental Organization. ANHAD came to Kashmir after the October 8, 2005 destructive earthquake to rehabilitate the people of affected areas mostly like Uri and Tanghdar. Tanghdar is a six hour drive away from Srinagar via Sopore and Kupwara. It is located in the Karnah tehsil of the Kupwara district. It is a mountainous area spanning the Line of Control that divides the Indian and Pakistani parts of Jammu and Kashmir. There are 42 villages in the Karnah tehsil and most of them have been totally destroyed in the earthquake. More than 300 people here lost their lives, and thousands were badly injured. More than 50, 000 people were rendered homeless by the earthquake. After the earthquake, the condition of the people here has worsened. Government has failed to rehabilitate the affected families and there are only some non-governmental organizations who have worked in the area. People are complaining that they don’t have access to the higher officials; they are not available here to address their problems.
I along with my colleagues comprising the visiting team of ANHAD, on way to Tanghdar observed that it’s unavoidable for every visitor to go through several security checking posts before reaching Tanghdar. So, we also reached our first check post at Chowkibal, Kupwara. We were questioned, our identities thoroughly verified and all the details were documented by the security personnel. As we were all set to leave the post, an army personnel came and handed over us a polythene (note that polythene is banned in the state) parcel to drop it at other check post near Sadhna Pass. This Pass is 25 kms prior to Tanghdar. There is no alternate route left through which one can go to Tanghdar after the Karnah Tehsil got divided into two parts: one in Indian side and other in Pakistan side.
The road near Sadhna pass is very dangerous and it often gets blocked due to snowfalls which lead to the cut off of Tanghdar from the state capital, Srinagar. Now as we have received the parcel from the army personnel, we were checking its contents and the army personnel said, “It is our normal daily usage commodity, there is nothing to be suspicious about it.”
One among us replied, “We were just checking, it may be explosive material also, we can’t trust you people. There is only difference of uniform between you and us.”
Army personnel replied angrily, “No we can’t trust you people, if you are from across Delhi we can trust you but if you are from this state you will always remain suspicious in our eyes.”
Moving forward to cover our rest of the journey, we reached Sadhna pass and handed over the packet to the army personnel deputed at that check post. Finally after the six hour drive and passage through several check posts we reached Tanghdar and received a warm welcome from the local people and particularly by our friends there.
Teetwal, a village near LoC enthralled me not only because of its natural scenic beauty but also because I was able to see other part of divided Kashmir from here. It’s important to record here that Teetwal is only area where I saw lemon trees in Kashmir valley and I took three lemons from there. Before allowing us to move in this area we were asked to get entry passes and were frisked near several check posts. We were allowed to visit the area only for half an hour. Kishen Ganga River which flows between the two mountains, one in Indian Occupied Kashmir and other in Azad Jammu and Kashmir plays the role of dividing line i.e. Line of Control. On the IOK mountain it was written in bold letters that, “Teetwal Hamari Shaan Hai (Teetwal is our pride)” and on the Azad Jammu and Kashmir side the tin roofs of houses were painted as such forming the flag of Pakistan. Also, Azad Jammu and Kashmir flag and Pakistani flag waved to me, but I was not allowed to wave back even because we were told by our friends ‘not to wave towards that side’. Army don’t like people to wave towards other side. The fear of living under the occupation of uninvited guests, Indian forces, can be observed in the eyes of the locals in that area. Everyone here is suspicious before the army; they are brutally ruling our motherland and treating us as aliens. It is unfortunate for us to be questioned and demanded permission for visiting other areas of our own mother land.
Tanghdar has many small villages in its mountainous terrain like Kwarpora, Nachiyan, Gabra, Kandi, Taadd, Triboni, Jadda, Hajitra, Teetwaal and many other far flung villages also. It was badly affected by the October 8, 2005 earthquake besides the deadly countenance of shelling when the war was on between the India and Pakistan. Nearly every house in this border area has a unique closet room underground which is used for protection during shelling. These rooms are called as Morcha; it’s made up of stones and logs in the courtyard of house. When there is no war, the villagers are using these rooms for storage of goods which they have to do because in winters the area gets cut off from the whole state as due to blockage of Sadhna pass with frequent snowfalls. Residents of Tanghdar who are all Pahari’s, they spoke Pahari language also, for last many decades are demanding the construction of a road tunnel to cross Sadhna pass, but government has taken no initiative yet. Mobile connectivity has not reached here yet. Local landline telephone booths hardly function properly. There is no internet connectivity. Even the newspapers here reach 24 hours after they are distributed in other parts of the state. Electricity plays hide and seek. Neither the local administration nor the state government has attempted to pay any attention towards the grievances of the people of Tanghdar.
Overall, it was a great experience visiting the place and also to see the other part of divided Kashmir. Unfortunately to visit my own motherland, I have to take permission from the non-state forces whom Kashmiris never welcomed to be here in Kashmir. Everyone demand the withdrawal of troops from Kashmir but Indian government is doing nothing except the futile promises and dialogue processes to befool the world and taking its time for strengthening its illegal occupation of Kashmir. Recently, the home minister of India was promising to revoke the black laws like Armed Forces Special Powers Act but nothing has been delivered yet. In a recent statement by the army, they said, “There are only 600-700 militants active in the valley and troops will not be withdrawn till the militant threat will not end.” It proves that for every 100 militants there are 100,000 troopers fighting with them. It’s unfortunate that India still claims itself to be world’s largest democracy.
I think Kashmir dispute cannot be solved by the bilateral dialogue process only, there should be carved out a special policy for its solution. All the stakeholders of the Kashmir dispute, most importantly the people of Kashmir should be involved in that policy.
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November 23, 2009 - 13:49
keep it up kashmirwalla…..may god bless ur hand of writing….tak care
September 19, 2011 - 16:11
Hi,
I just want to know. where are you from?
September 19, 2011 - 22:10
Good details that you shared but I beg to differ on few points. Few lines that doesn’t seem to be justified.
1. Indian Army men leave their families and stay there with all danger to their life. Now when you go with them and smilingly wave at Pakistani flags, that is kind of an insult to the work they do. So I beleive people should have manners not to wave at pakistan in happiness at least in front of those gallent people. This fear is justified.
2. It is not a matter of non-kashmiri forces working there. One must always remember that it is part of India and under sensitive issues. It is very justified that even residents should now take Indian Army’s permission to visit that place. Because of Pakistan that place is no longer a peaceful place. That rule applies everywhere be it maoists in eastern part of India or India Bangladesh border or Tibet issue and every coutry does its full to protect it. I never got your point on what you are trying to say although I enjoyed other parts of blog like scenic description.
3. By the way Srinagar and surrounding regions are not the most underdeveloped parts of India so those complains about modern facilities like internet doesn’t seem logical. It happens everywhere. What is so special if you did not see those facilities there? Want to see disrupted families? Come to Maoist hit areas and you will forget about Kashmir.
November 3, 2011 - 12:39
Hey, it seems that u don’t have ur facts right….army firstly is doing a lot in Tangdhar like providing education,medical aid,daily needs all yr around n esp in winters n i have seen respect for army in the eyes of the locals there….please visit Tangdhar to get the correct pic…do not give wrong info.
November 5, 2011 - 17:36
Dear sir,
I am glad you could visit the area of Tangdhar, which is not visited even by the local politicians of kashmir. They visit only when politics need them to do so.
Over years People of Tanghdhar hve been living on the jobs created by army. There are no opprtunities for employment except for police, teachers, post office, lbour ofiic,PWD and bit of agriculture.
In border areas of J&K,there is lot of development as compared to bordering areas of other states. There are lots of espioaage activities as bordering population has relaations on the either side. People cross over t night esily in Kaan are/leep valley.It is exagrated fact that people don’t wave to each other. Marriages do take place amongst bordering population.Paakistanies prefer to haave medical services clandetinely; which I recomment should be opened for leepa valley.Items of daily needs like sugar,cloth.oil etc etc are smuggled to POK.army hospitls are open to all the public and natural calmities are faced jointly by army and public.there is a wonderful reltion amongst army and villagers. women are respected in India unlike expolited by our counterpart.I had saved women from being raped in a small village on the foothill of FDL Anil; that time company was from Jat regt in 1974.
Over a period of time; helicopter services t a very nominl price is operated during winters as the Nastchun pass remains closed.There is so much I can write about Tanghdhar but this is enough for you to understand. I still hve friends in Tanghdhaar who were too popular across the border for their music. Master ji is no more but friends are still there going strong. My regards to all of my friends over there.I feel bad that I can’t visit them now and enjoy the beaauty of area, fragnance of pine trees aand walnuts, sound of flowing Kath Kazinaar.I livid with the community who speak Pathwari language which is identical to laanguge of Rawalpindi, to which I belong.I will alwys pray for sfety, prosperity and haappiness of all belonging to Leepa Valley, Teethwal and Tangdhar Valley.
November 7, 2011 - 18:32
Very interesting. Facts have been described. Concerned authorities must take notice and act to remove the problems of people of this remote locality – Tangdhar.
March 18, 2012 - 01:12
Dear Kashmiri people, dear inhabitants of Tangdhar,
I am an elderly Hungarian Mechanical Engineer, living in Budapest now. Many years ago, back in the year of 1989 I worked for you on the Karnah hydroelectric power station. Our company, which is named Ganz Machinery Manufacturing Ltd of Budapest, delivered the turbines (2 x 1 MW of Francis type hydro turbines) to the Power Station. Unfortunately, due to the severe political problems in that year I had to leave the site before the project was completed. I was instructed to do so by our Embassy in New Delhi. However, I keep the people of Kashmir in my heart. I hope, that one day before I die, I will have the opportunity to see you again.
All the best to you people of Kashmir! Agar ferdows baroye zemin est, hamin esto, hamin esto, hamin esto. (= If there is paradise on this Earth, then it is this, it is this, it is this! – said the Emperor of the Mughal Empire, Shahjehan.)
Ferenc Domotor
June 8, 2012 - 00:41
DEAR FERENCE DOMOTOR DR TECHN.
HAPPY TO MEET THE PERSON WHO STILL REMEMBER THE PEOPLE OF KARNAH.WHO HAS WORKED TO LIGHT THE LIVES OF PEOPLE OF KARNAH BY COMMISSIONING OF 2X1 MW POWER PLANT IN 1991,AT PRESENT IAM WORKING AT THAT POWER PLANT AS A ENGINEER, IF U DONT MIND PLEASE SHARE UR MAIL ADRESS SO THAT I CAN GET SOME INFORMATION REGARDING TURBINE SHAFT,BECAUSE THE DRAWINGS ARE NOT AVAILABLE WITH US,THOSE WEAR GOT WASHED AWAY DURING THE FLOODS OF 1992.ONE NO SHAFT HAS GOT DAMAGED AND THE UNIT IS UNDER FORCED
,I WANT TO KNOW THE DIA OF SHAFT,LENGTH,AND MATERIAL OF SHAFT
June 16, 2012 - 18:02
Dear Mr Mohd Iqbal! I am happy to hear any news about the people of Tanghdar. Of course I will contact you, and I will try do do anything to get the required data. Yours sincerely Ferenc Domotor
My address: ferenc.domotor60@gmail.com
June 30, 2012 - 09:21
Dear Mr Mohd Iqbal,
I am still waiting for your Email address, which I don’t have. Please, let me know it, otherwise I am unable to help you. Sincerely yours
Ferenc Domotor
Email: ferenc.domotor60@gmail.com
February 20, 2013 - 17:27
Dear Friend,
I read your write up about Tangdhar,Titwal,Kishanganga,IOK,Azad Kashmir and about the Indian Army people there.
It is clear that your narration depicts that,you could be a person of Pakistani origin or from POK(Pakistan Occupied Kashmir).Please note;the illegal occupation is by Pakistan.The real azadi is being enjoyed by those on the Indian side.
I served in Jammu and Kashmir for over nine years in three tenures and two were in the Valley.One tenure of three years was precisely in Tangdhar.I recall my tenures with a lot of joy and carry wonderful memories
The Indian people from the state of J&K have always co operated with their army and army enjoyed and continues to enjoy their respect.It is only the misguided people who have been brainwashed,who try to say that Kashmiris do not like the army and they treat the army as uninvited guests etc.These are far from reality.Kashmir is an integral part of India and every soldier is aware of it.Elections have taken place and J&K has been having elected governments unlike in the case of Pakistan who has always been under the army rule but for a few instances of mockocracy.There is no comparison whatsoever.The two nation theory has been shred to pieces with the formation of Bangladesh.Pakistan exists in a cauldron of their own.You mention about the soldiers giving you the packet etc sounds absurd.On the same route that you walked,so many foot columns and vehicle columns (when weather permits),commute.Where is the need to give the packet to you?You must have projected a picture of being more loyal than the soldiers guarding there that they trusted you which you are misquoting.
You mentioned about tin roofed houses across Kishan ganga painted in Pakistani flag colours.In fact you can notice the rusted tin roof houses in POK as aginst well made,neat roofs within our country bordering Kishanganaga.Ask any one and this distiction is noted by locals and they themselves quote this often,pitying at the condition in which their brothern across the LOC live.
My advise to you is,to wake up to reality.Kashmir should completely come back to India for their own benefits and welfare.Currently,the POK is only rotting in the created mess and atmosphere of hatred,though nature has given it everything that the Kashmiris on the Indian side of the LOC is enjoying.
You must reconcile to the facts and not go by imaginations and hearsays.
The smile on the faces of the people on our side of the LOC is totally missing on the other side.This is a fact.
KSN